Planning was an extensive process, as there are many beautiful places to go, and given the conditions of the roads (more on that later), it is not so easy to get from place to place. My lovely goddaughter, who spent several years living in Costa Rica, offered her recommendations and soon it was decided, we would spend four nights each in La Fortuna, near the Arenal Volcano and, following a day trip to the famed Monteverde area enroute, four more nights by the beach in Tamarindo. I'm going to give you a bit of overview of both places, and then share a few observations and surprises!
LA FORTUNA/ARENAL:
At 7:10 am, we arrived at Liberia airport, which proved to be a better location given our itinerary. From here we drove to La Fortuna via a stop in Parque Nacional Volcan Tenorio to do some light hiking in extremely rainy weather (thank God we brought and accessed the $8 rain ponchos, which saved our lives) before having some lunch and tubing on the rapids of Rio Celeste with Onca Tours. The roads and navigation thereafter to La Fortuna were frustrating until I finally had to call our hotel and get directions from the very patient English speaking man at the front desk! We finally arrived at the absolutely lovely Arenal Springs Resort and Spa in La Fortuna as the sun was setting, tired from the overnight flight and bedraggled by rain and humidity. The staff offered a smile and a complimentary welcome drink, and I nearly burst into tears!
Hanging out at our Hot Springs |
From La Fortuna you can drive one hour out to Sarapiqui and raft on the river there. We had a thrilling day with Aguas Bravas over the class 2 and 3 rapids. Also within 20 minutes are the Mistico Hanging Bridges Park, the breathtaking Catarata Rio Fortuna and more light hiking at the Parque Nacional Volcan Arenal. We also mountain biked around part of Lake Arenal and braved the rope swing, "El Salto." Basically, there are all types of adventures offered. Ziplining (called canopy tours) is omnipresent. Jet skiing, rapeling, ATV tours, birdwatching, nature tours, cocoa tours, coffee tours, sloth tours--it's all near La Fortuna. You just have to get out of your hotel.
Rafting on the Sarapiqui River |
Mistico Hanging Bridges Park |
Catarata Rio Fortuna |
Mountain Biking at Lake Arenal |
The Reserva Biologica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde (the Monteverde Cloud Forest) is the single most visited place in Costa Rica. The area is also replete with adventure operations ready to zip you, Superman style if you like, over the trees and through the clouds. We started our day in Monteverde at 9am with a 7 line ziplining adventure with TreeTopia Park. Despite the excitement of flying 300 feet above the ground with only a few harnesses, a carabiner and some rope preventing you from certain death, the howling wind and rain nearly killed us. Who knows, maybe better to go in the afternoon. Anyway, after a quick soda lunch in Santa Elena, off we went to the cloud forest where there is light hiking through the wet reserve.
TAMARINDO:
Pretty much every evening in Guanacaste |
But really, in three days we spent very little actual time in the city of Tamarindo. We mostly drove through with our car on our way to beaches, activities, and restaurants out of town.
There are a lot of great beaches within driving distance of the city, but you have to be cautious, as the oceanside does seem to be teeming with dangerous rip currents and almost none of the beaches have lifeguards, so you really have to do your research, and never go out alone or without someone watching you from the shore. The coast near Tamarindo is also famous for surfing, and many beaches lend themselves far more to this activity rather than actual swimming. Two great beaches we found to be at least reasonably swimmer friendly were Playa Conchal and Playa Flamingo. Both have a sandy bottom, some shade on the beach, and the water is refreshing but not too cold.
In Playa Conchal, you actually have to park in Brasilito and walk along the beach about 15 minutes south, hauling all your gear, to get to the much more desirable area. Everyone, is doing this and it's actually funny to watch the steady stream of beachgoers seeking more favorable waters. It is very obvious when you get there.
There are a few beach bars in the area where you can go, rent an umbrella and a chair, and have use of their facilities all day long. Lola's in Playa Avellana rents two beach chairs and one umbrella all day for 54$. It seems that most of the drinking holes up and down the beach in Tamarindo offer some kind of similar arrangement, probably for a little less. If you don't want to rent equipment, it is no problem to plop your beach towel or your foldable chair down anywhere and enjoy the beach, which is public. You likely can also walk into any bar and buy drinks to take out onto the sand with you. Stay for sunset. The Tamarindo sunsets are unmatched.
The Sunset view from Lola's |
and the sunset from the boat |
We thoroughly enjoyed two meals we had, the previously mentioned Lola's on Playa Avellana and at Fish and Cheeses, only a four minute walk from our condominium.
DRIVING:
Now this could be an entire blog post in and of itself. THE COSTA RICAN ROADS HANDS DOWN ARE THE WORST ON THE PLANET AND TICO DRIVERS MAY ALSO BE THE WORST ON THE PLANET. In 2018, 1 in every 1000 Ticos was involved in a fatal or serious traffic accident. That same year one in every 25 was involved in a traffic accident requiring the involvement of police.
If you are lucky you are driving on a two lane road. At no time in the eight days we were there do I remember driving on anything but a two lane road. You will share this road, which is the highway mind you, with slow trucks, parked cars, pedestrians, horses, bicycles, and lot of motorcycles. Passing is rampant, basically anytime you think someone is going too slow, because there is no way that slow truck is going to pull over to let people pass. The roads are pocked with potholes, some of them literally the size of VW busses, and if it has been raining, you can't see how deep they are. If you don't have potholes to slow you down, the speedbumps will. They are everywhere...
Believe me this is nothing.. I have videos with bicycles towing horses! |
Another big problem is the regular appearance of the gravel road. We drove miles and miles on gravel roads to get to Monteverde, to get to activities, and to get to dinner--it's just the price you pay. Driving on a dirt road is a slow and dusty business, oh, and the gravel roads have potholes too. Waze is an effective tool while in Costa Rica, but do keep in mind that it is going to take you the way it thinks is fastest, even if it's not really the best choice. It is also hard to orient yourself on Waze, relative to the other roads around you, so Waze may be taking you on a yucky steep gravelly short cut, when it might have been less painful to just stay on the road you were on. TWICE we were directed onto closed roads and other times we were just directed to the center of town rather than to the actual destination. We got so lost on our way from raft tubing to our hotel in Arenal that I had to pull over an call the hotel. I can't believe we ever made it.
A 4WD is essential. There's no way around it. No timid drivers either. Avoid driving at night. Pray. Bring a real live map-the kind you hold in your hand.
FOOD:
The food in Costa Rica is AMAZING! Super fresh and healthy. The smoothie is a staple, and when you try the fresh fruit, you will know why. Lots of vegetables, beans, and rice.
A little outdoor cafe serving typical Costa Rican food is called a "soda." The typical Costa Rican plate lunch is called a "casado," which means married man. It is so named as it represents what a wife might feed her hungry man at the end of a hard work day--salad, beans and rice, meat, and vegetables. We had these whenever we could, with chicken, fish, or beef.
The people in Costa Rica are kind and helpful and hospitable. They are welcoming to tourists. Most speak some English and like to try to practice as much as they can. We felt very safe at all times, including when we parked our rental car full of luggage. No stink eye in Costa Rica. We could not say the same the last time we went to Hawaii...
Anyway, quite sadly I will not be travelling for quite some time! My fun run has come to a pause. Sit tight! I am hoping in a few months to be back out on the road again
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